The Magic of Nepal - Part I
The nation of Nepal does not have a giant footprint on the world stage. It is small, quaint yet magical. When asked about Nepal Mt Everest, Lumbini and the Gurkha heritage take the spotlight, but in its shadow lies an amalgam of exotic culture, remnants of the old world and unparallel beauty. It creates a magnificent experience no matter the intent, as one is bound to encounter this magic that makes Nepal, a lifetime experience.
Old World Elegance
Nepal, as a nation shares the pages of history from primordial times. But in the global stage, its recognition only came after 1950 AD. The implementation of an open-door policy allowed explorers, documenters and adventurers to experience the magic of this beautiful country. It is through their work, documents, and stories Nepal charmed the world.
Walking the streets of Basantapur Durbar Square, one can witness a peculiar amalgam; it is hard to describe seeing the European façade of Gadhi Baithak find a place amongst traditional Newari masonry. This peculiarity creates a spell, enticing all to imagine a bygone era.
Shanker Hotel itself is an example of old-world elegance. A neo-classical palace commissioned during in the 19th century with the utmost luxury and magnificence.
With the turn of the century and end of the Rana rule in Nepal. It was then converted into a luxury hotel. Its baroque facade shines bright even today in the 21st century with ancient carvings displayed in grandiloquence. It is rare to experience such grandeur, coupled with the utmost hospitality in Nepal.
A Cultural Amalgam
Every itinerary to Nepal features experiencing its capital, Kathmandu. Making way through the busy streets, bustling markets and heritage sites. The amalgam of Hinduism and Buddhism is clear as night and day.
The discovery and founding stones of this valley are of the Buddhist faith. The township of Manjupatana, created by Boddhisatva Manjushri was the first of many in this valley. Today, it is home to numerous cities such as Kathmandu, Lalitpur, Bhaktapur and ancient villages such as Tokha, Bode, Khokana and Thecho.
It is rare to find such a cross-cultural diversity in the modern world, with two distinct faiths such as Buddhism and Hinduism calling one valley home. The unique discipline of Vajrayana Buddhism flourished in this valley even though the origins of it lie in Tibet. It has grown even further with multiple sects of Buddhism such as Mahayana, Theravada, and Vajrayana intersect each other in such a small space.
This cultural amalgam gave birth to the unique pantheon of deities worshipped by the native inhabitants of this valley. When one dives into the Newar pantheon, divinities of both faith have equal importance and respect. Some even come to life, few are living gods and goddesses.
Describing what creates this cohesion is difficult, unearthing the mysteries of it a monumental challenge. It is best to enjoy it than to dissect it.
The Last Light of Magic
Many have crossed oceans and walked treacherous trails to find, understand, learn and heal themselves through the magic of the eastern world. I have crossed paths with many who left westerly pleasures and made temples and monasteries home. I’ve heard many say, Nepal is one of the last places in the world where magic still exists.
From shaman’s to mystic sages and jogini’s (female practitioners of the dark arts); ancient healing practises and tantra rituals. Drawing a scientific conclusion at times is difficult due to the secrecy and mysticism.
On the road to Patan Durbar Square near Nya: Tole (Na Tole), lives a family of Bajracharyas. They for generations have been the doctors for the people of Patan. But they have no medical degree. During my commute, I saw a group of tourists in awe. The Bajracharyas have installed clear glass doors and windows. All can see their practice.
The mystic doctor was patting a woman with a traditional broom. He whispered secret chants during the process. Once the healing process was over the woman bowed and departed. A gentleman came and sat down in her place, behind him was a cue of five more individuals.
I have sat in that very spot as a young child. Confused and scared, I remember holding my mother's hand as he patted me with a traditional broom. To calm my senses, I closed my eyes. The gentle taps were quite soothing. As he manoeuvred the broom in a sweeping motion from my head to shoulder and feet, it seemed like he was cleaning what my mother told him was my problem.
A morsel of rice was then wrapped in a piece of old newspaper to be placed under my pillow. Another was to be sprinkled in the cardinal directions of my room. Did it work or not, I shall never know. But, it was good enough to give hope and strength to my mother.