The Moving Temples of Kathmandu Valley - Part V
Born and raised in this beautiful valley, I’ve had the honour of witnessing most of its chariot festivals. The moving temples are the same every year, but the pomp and flair never fail to strike a bolt of awe in my heart. The creaking of wood, thunder of cheers and clang of metal combined create a euphoric atmosphere. It never seems to get old.
In this article, we dive into the final moving temple of this valley. It is the hallmark of a unique festival celebrated in Bhaktapur. Collectively, it is known as Biska Jatra. This festival is celebrated in various dwellings of this region.
Did you know Bhaktapur was the capital of Nepal Mandala (Ancient Nepal)? This city is by far the most organized amongst its sisters (Lalitpur and Kathmandu). King Ananda Malla commissioned this city in the 9th century.
“This younger brother (Ananda Malla, son of Abhaya Malla being very generous and wise gave up the sovereignty over the two cities (Kathmandu and Lalitpur) founded a city of 12,000 houses, which he named Bhaktapur (Bhatgaon) and included sixty small villages in his territory. After this, the Raja having obtained the favour and directions of Chandeswari founded seven towns; viz Banepur(Banepa) near Chandeswari Pitha; Panavati ( Panauti) near the Pragya Tirtha of Nepal. Celebrated in the Shastras, on the site of where Panchala-des formerly stood, Nala near Nala Bhagvati, Dhaukhel(Dhulikhel) near Narayana; Khadpu near Dhaneswar; Chaikot, near the residence of Chakora Rishi; and Sanga, near Nasika Pitha.” (Wright,1990)1
Another fun fact, the festivals original name is Bisyaku Jatra. It means a celebration (jatra) after the death of serpents (Bisyaku).
Click here to read our article on the tale of Biska Jatra
On the first day of this celebration, a great tug of war ensues between (Thane) uptown and (Kone) downtown. Teams tussle to bring the kha (chariot) of Bhaila Deo (Bhairab) to their part of town. His chariot features three roofs, a dhoma (horizontal log), a golden pinnacle and four wheels.
The design features exquisite Newar woodwork with no nails. A joint based locking system (chuka) holds the chariot together. At the heat of war, it sways beautifully.
Simultaneously, in another part of town, Nakinju Ajima (Bhadrakali) is placed on a similar but smaller chariot. These two deities meet on the 4th day at Yoshin Khel. This area gets its name from Yoshin, meaning a long wooden pole erected in the middle of an open field (Khel).
Biska jatra also has another meaning. It symbolizes conjugation, creation and continuity of life. The depiction of which is the mating of Bhailo Deo and Nakinju Ajima. Their symbolic copulation occurs at Gahiti during midnight of new years day.
A local legend states how Bhailo Deo’s chariot doesn’t even move an inch during copulation. It is rather Nakinju Ajima who passionately dashes Bhailo Deo.
On the final day of the festival, the chariots head to their designated locales. The shrines are removed and carried to their temples.
Celebrations of Biska occur at various other localities of Bhaktapur. In Thimi, it is called Sindoor Jatra. Similar, Chapacho and Bode also have their version of Biska.
Click here to read our article on Sindoor Jatra.