Every Newar dwelling has its mammoth festivity. Matysendras chariot festival is the largest of Patan and Indra Jatra is of Kathmandu. The celebrations of the capital is unique due to the intersection of multiple facets.
Folk tales state how Lord Indra (King of heavens) descended to earth looking for Parijat (Night Jasmine). He took mortal form and found the plant in the yard of a Newar farmer. While picking the flower, he was caught and imprisoned.
As he did not return, his mother began to worry for his safety. She asked Phul Kusi, the white elephant of Lord Indra, to find him.
It searched for him day and night but failed to locate him. While roaming the streets of Kantipur (old city within Kathmandu), Phul Kusi was mesmerized by the music of the festivities. It danced its way through the streets with the locals.
Flabergasted was Phul Kusi when it reached the city centre. Chained atop a tall wooden pole was Lord Indra.
Phul Kusi took the news to swarga loka (heaven), and in a flash mother of Indra descended from heaven. She demanded her son be released. The locals told her that he was a thief. Indra watched the argument and began to grow restless. A great light imitated as he revealed his identity.
The locals were rendered speechless and feared his wrath. His mother offered them something that they could not refuse in exchange for her son.
She promised them a final rainfall before harvest season so that their crops can prosper. Also, she vowed to show them the gateway to heaven.
They freed him and followed them to the outskirts of the city. She tricked the villagers and generated a large mist. Amidst the confusion, the trio returned to heaven.
A fascinating tale, isn’t it?
The true origins of this festival, however, is still debated. The closest scientific rendition requires understanding various elements of Newar society. On a gist, the full moon of this period is Yenya Punhi. Primordially this day marked the last of Barsha (rainy season). Post which is Sarad (Autumn). Hoisting of a pole is a ceremonial act. The same can be seen during the end of winter and beginning of spring (Biskah Jatra of Bhaktapur). A similar act is placing scarecrows (Gatha Mwah) at the nearest crossroad after the saplings mature during the plantation season. This day is known as Gatha Mugah or Gathe Mangal.
Newar festivities begin in full swing after this day (Gathe Mangal) and end on Sithi Shasti/ Sithi Nakah, right before plantation season.
Now, onto the glorious chariots of Yenya Punhi.
As mentioned previously, over time this day as gained various facets. One of which is of Kumari Jatra, a grand festival of the guardian of this valley. She is viewed as the primordial protector along with Bhairab. Their worship dates back to the origin of this vale.
Click here: To read our article on the Kumari
According to chronicles, King Jaya Prakash Malla commissioned the festival. He incorporated Kumari Jatra into Indra Jatra. The living goddess and the living gods (Ganesha and Bhairab) are placed onto pagoda-style chariots and circulated on a designated route for three consecutive days.
On the first day, the chariots are pulled to Kwaneya (Downtown) area by revellers. The jubilation lasts till late as the route is quite ridiculous and narrow. At around 5 pm the next day, the trio are taken to Thaneya (Uptown). Revellers are encouraged by traditional tunes played by musicians. The final route is to Nanichaya (Midtown). It makes way from Basantapur to Pyaphal, Yatkha, Kilagal, Bedasing, Indra Chowk, Makhan and comes to an end at Basantapur.
A ritual (Kumari Puja) commences in front of the Kumari Chhen (home), after which Kumari Jatra is complete.
